Guatemala

April 27-30, 2009 Guatemala

Our last stop was a surprise and pleasure. We didn’t know exactly what we would do the first two days – we wanted to do something special with Barrett. Wendy and Matthew were going to Antigua to ride horses and climb a volcano. We ended up in a cab heading south from Puerto Quetzal to Monterrico. We arrived on the edge of the rainy season, so it was quiet there. Our hotel, Atelie del Mar, was a group of buildings with palma roofs. The dining area is outside under a red mangrove and palma roof, and there is a large swimming pool on one side and a small one on the other. Barrett learned to get in and out of a hammock. Violetta, the wife of the owner, cooked the meals, but her real work is painting watercolors on silk. She is respected as an artist (we couldn’t afford even her smallest works), and it wasn’t until she took us up to her studio that I realized she is blind. She also has a lovely flower garden. Her husband is originally from Finland and speaks many languages.
Across the street was the beach that sounded like thunder from the hotel! The black sand was hot!! We had to wear our shoes down to the water line. I held on to Barrett’s hand because as we played in the foam, the water tried to pull him into the Pacific, steal him from me! It was a very steep and dangerous beach. We watched people launching a boat out into the surf. Then we went and did our swimming in the pool.
At five in the morning, we heard a knock. Eleazor, who works at the hotel, came to take us on a tour a los mangles de la Reserva Natural Monte Rico. A Guatemalan honeymoon couple and a communications professor from the ship, Jody, went with us. Eleazor had a pole boat, and we glided between the mangroves. We heard gray egrets laughing and saw big white herons. Social flycatchers were showing off their bright golden yellow breasts. Large termite nests of brownish mud were wedged up in the trees, and the sun rose orange between volcanoes. Ferryboats, flat barges with a motor on the back, carried one car or truck along the canal. Some men were fishing for shrimp, and we saw tiny set gillnets strung next to the mangroves that had captured Barrett-palm-sized fish. Best of all were the anableps anableps, four-eyed fish that look like frogs swimming and then skip across the water when they see us coming. Barrett called them “skippers.” I found out that they have two eyes, but four pupils with split corneas for air and for under water vision.
Walking back through the village, Barrett spotted big pigs running in the street. Then we saw a litter of piglets. Barrett and Jody followed them around while we waited for a man to make us coffee. Then the proprietor squeezed fresh oranges for Barrett to drink. As we walked on, Barrett noticed chickens running about. We bought some tortillas a lady was cooking on a flat grill, and a big green ball for Barrett.
The last day we traveled by bus to a village near Antigua called Alotenango or San Miguel Duenas (we never got that clarified). “Tourist police” followed us. These are now part of the government’s plan to help improve Guatemala’s reputation as a dangerous country. Our guide Leonel told us the story of his struggle growing up, getting an education. Out of all the information emerged a hopeful note: Guatemala is slowly gaining a middle class, and education is the key. In the village, we visited a private, free library for children, Open Windows Library. One of the founders, Theresa, said that she realized Christmas gifts for the poor children did not last, so she began the library in her mother’s empty home. It has grown, and the children are learning. They go to school in the morning only, so the library is open in the afternoon for homework, tutoring, computer use, and reading. Right now they need volunteers who speak Spanish and can teach math, as well as someone to open a teen center in the evenings. Wow, it is amazing what one person can do with their vision! We also went to a school, and the children were painting woven newspaper baskets with cardboard bottoms that they had made. Barrett was allowed to help paint.
For lunch we went to Antigua. Barrett had fallen asleep in the bus, and he slept on the wooded floor of the restaurant as we ate. Then we walked around the town. Barrett was begging for a lollypop he saw, and I said “No.” Low and behold, a parade of high school beauties came by with girls dressed to the nines atop cars, throwing candy to Barrett!
Guatemala was colorful and interesting. Now I really need to learn to say more that adios!! When we walked up the gangway, everyone was nostalgic – it was our last time to board the ship.